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I posted this back in 2007 , I posted this at our forums.thetoyz.com but is always a good read for gearing
The majority of cars have two elements of gearing that can be changed, these are the pinion (the gear that attaches to the motor) and the spur, the gear that meshes with the pinion.
The pinion is typically a metal part, however some manufacturers such as GPM and others are now using delrin gears. The spur is always made of a softer material than the pinion, typically nylon or some other type of plastic.
Hey Guys and Gals,
We have been selling item number TOYZ 701 for a while now and there are a very cool light. There are lots of questions on how to mount them. They photos have info in them
I do not have photos for all examples but here are some ways to do it
1) Using TOYZ 741 clear light buckets. You can either paint the back chrome or use the provided chrome decal
2) ream a hole in the body and shoe goo or liquid electrical tape to hold it in place.
How to paint a RC body
There are many ways on how to paint a shell. There is the tape method which is ok. Personally, I don’t like it as the lines can bleed through and not be crisp. Then there are the masks. If you do these then get the vinyl ones. They are like taping, only they are like stickers and seal better. The third way, and the ones that I prefer, involve using parma masking or Bob Dively masking. For this walk through I will be using Bob. If you want to post a thread on the others then please do! We would all like to read it!!!
The liquid masks are a thick liquid that can be airbrushed or brushed onto the inside of a shell. The liquid paste dries and new coats can be applied. Typically you will want to apply 2 to 3 layers. The reason why I prefer Bob over Parma is that the lines come out better and the liquid mask can be applied and used within 7 days. Parma you almost have to use immediately or else it will not be as pliable or easy to work with.
How to Waterproof and prepare your RC for Fall/ Winter driving
Right around this time of the year kids return to school, the days are not as long, and the temperature starts to drop. Fall is almost here! Most of us just do not want to give up our toys for five months though. We want to run them through the fall and winter. In order to do this we have to prepare them for the rainy and snowy season. This article will show you how to do just that for the following areas:
You will need some special supplies for this. The nice part about them is that they are not at the local hobby store and you will be able to save some cash with the exception of one item. By a simple trip to a retail store and a hardware store you will want the following:
-Silicone Sealant (commonly found in the caulking aisle)
-Plastic Dip (commonly found in the paint aisle)
-Balloons (found in the novelty card aisle)
-Electrical tape (found in the electrical aisle)
-Liquid tape aka scotchguard (found in the electrical aisle)
-Zip ties (found in the electrical aisle)
-An old sock
-Associated’s Green Slime (Found at the local hobby store)
How to remove your tires from the rim!
I see this question a lot and thought that I would tackle it. The question is how to remove the tire from the rim and if the tire is salvageable afterwards. If done right, usually you can re-use the tire and the rim as well. Removing is easy to do.
There are no smells associated with the removal however there is a BURN HAZARD. You will want to be very careful of the hot water or temperatures associated in doing this conversion. You could burn your skin on either method. You will want to use a thick pair of rubber gloves and to rest when the temperatures start to get too high for your hands or you.
There are two methods. The first one presented is boiling and the second is baking.
Gluing your tires, without a mess, is something that is commonly learned over time. But, how do you do it where it is a one shot deal?
This is also helpful to the new entrant to RC where kits are now starting to pop up with rims but no tires. Which, can seem odd but it also allows tires that are customized to the track and course that you are running. I just received a Team Magic buggy that was this way and it is considered one of their entry to mid level kits.
The first part of assembling the tires is to feed the foams into the tire. Place the foam inside one corner and then work it around the inside of the tire so that it is flat and even on all sides.
We have all been there and have all done it. For some, getting into the hobby is a financial burden as it can be a lot of money to sink. For other people it is not worth paying r to $700 for a brand new kit when you can get a used one for less.
The main question is…. Is it worth the cash that you are about to lay on the line and what is and is not too much?
This article is for the person who wants to save some cash but also not get hosed. The advice in this article has served me well for years.
It can be great or it can be a bombshell….BUYER BEWARE!!!
Ah! The lovely smell of commerce and the secondary market is one where the consumer always wants the best for the cheapest price. If you are negotiating do not insult the seller by saying “what is the lowest price shipped you will sell this for?” I can honestly tell you that I am the kind of guy that will work with people and their budgets as I want to see them go to a good home. Most good RC’ers are this way as well. Insult us an that deal immediately goes bad.
Next, when you get the kit do not expect it to be new. It is used. This means that someone else had it and ran it. They:
1) May not be RC experts and have no idea what they were doing.
2) Have broken parts and may not have realized it
3) May consider things to be routine running and you may not.
You are saving cash by not buying new. If you want it to be perfect then buy new.
RC Setup Guide PT 2
This is part two of two of the setup guide. There are 21 topics covered in total. Not all are covered below.
Vids in the series:
Part 11- Brakes http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-kbmqWN9Uw
Part 12- Differentials http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSA6A4dfWyc
Part 13- Anti squat http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcPDwrXcfm0
Part 14- Gearing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0CyI19INu0
Part 15- Kickup http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZHbqH6le98
Part 16- Throttle servo setup http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqLcyobUK4w
Part 17- Wheel Balancing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtdXDstLr7s
Part 18- Lipo battery conversion for nitros http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2A6nSXfqIp8
Part 19- Wheelbase http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hKQ3U6xhKo
Part 20- Shock tower positions http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-i5pHdxQi4
Part 21- After race/ running procedures http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjdYcvMkwIo
Brake setup is important as it handles how gradually or how sharply you will stop. This will effect the weight transfer, stability, and control. There is a fine line between the two.
Some RC kits come with a thumbscrew adjustment that can be turned in or out. When the brakes are adjusted correctly, this adjustment will lengthen the use of the bar or shorten it. If you have one of these thumbscrews then turning it in will reduce the length of the brake rod and thus make the braking action seem more abrupt and sudden, and thus, leading to more weight transfer and instability.
The opposite is true if you lengthen it. The brake pads will have less to grab and hold onto. Thus, the braking action will be more gradual, or even to an extreme, non-existent.
Fixed brake levers work in the same manor as the above. Adjustments are made with the radio on to ensure that the brake comes on (the set screw that pulls on the lever) and releases (the set screw that pushes the brake into a clearing state) when they are supposed to.
These levers control a pivot arm that is blocked at the bottom. This block will push the brake pads out to grab the brake disc. The adjustment to this is the screw length. The less room the close pad has to be pushed to compress the disc against the pad that is attached to the screw head then the more abrupt the stop will be. Increasing the screw length will give more play in the braking and allow for a more gradual stop.
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