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RC Setup Guide PT 2
This is part two of two of the setup guide. There are 21 topics covered in total. Not all are covered below.
Vids in the series:
Part 11- Brakes http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-kbmqWN9Uw
Part 12- Differentials http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSA6A4dfWyc
Part 13- Anti squat http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcPDwrXcfm0
Part 14- Gearing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0CyI19INu0
Part 15- Kickup http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZHbqH6le98
Part 16- Throttle servo setup http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqLcyobUK4w
Part 17- Wheel Balancing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtdXDstLr7s
Part 18- Lipo battery conversion for nitros http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2A6nSXfqIp8
Part 19- Wheelbase http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hKQ3U6xhKo
Part 20- Shock tower positions http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-i5pHdxQi4
Part 21- After race/ running procedures http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjdYcvMkwIo
Brake setup is important as it handles how gradually or how sharply you will stop. This will effect the weight transfer, stability, and control. There is a fine line between the two.
Some RC kits come with a thumbscrew adjustment that can be turned in or out. When the brakes are adjusted correctly, this adjustment will lengthen the use of the bar or shorten it. If you have one of these thumbscrews then turning it in will reduce the length of the brake rod and thus make the braking action seem more abrupt and sudden, and thus, leading to more weight transfer and instability.
The opposite is true if you lengthen it. The brake pads will have less to grab and hold onto. Thus, the braking action will be more gradual, or even to an extreme, non-existent.
Fixed brake levers work in the same manor as the above. Adjustments are made with the radio on to ensure that the brake comes on (the set screw that pulls on the lever) and releases (the set screw that pushes the brake into a clearing state) when they are supposed to.
These levers control a pivot arm that is blocked at the bottom. This block will push the brake pads out to grab the brake disc. The adjustment to this is the screw length. The less room the close pad has to be pushed to compress the disc against the pad that is attached to the screw head then the more abrupt the stop will be. Increasing the screw length will give more play in the braking and allow for a more gradual stop.
Squirrel’s RC Set=up Guide PT 1
I have seen a lot of questions about set up or things that could be answered through proper setup. When you build a Pro level kit you will be introduced with a lot of tuning options. The astute builder will notice them and wonder why they are telling you to build the kit this way.
In order to answer these questions I went through a few Pro level manuals that I own. They do not explain all but I have written notes about the adjustments of each through my own research to know what it is exactly I am doing and adjusting. Then, as the years past, I have gained first hand knowledge and also other sources that have popped up that have helped out tremendously. Hopefully these collages of notes will you out as well. This is not complete by any means at all. The 21 subjects that are covered are a tip of the ice berg. However, the ones that I have chosen are either directly related to another or are the meat and potatoes of a good basis of understanding.
The key to a good basher, or a good racer, is a good setup. Racing is 90% skill. And that is very true. However, if your kit is miss-aligned then it will require 110% skill to overcompensate for the lack of setup and tuning. I do believe that the heart of the 90% skill comment is over the trends of buying the biggest and best engines, pipes, and electronics. However, I feel that there is so much you can do for arguably nothing that will make you look better than you could be… and that is set up.
[b[In this series[/b]
Vid 1- Camber- http://www.youtube.com/v/tUQ1xWaNf9g
Vid 2- Caster- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LRNZH3-YV8
Vid 3 Ackerman- http://www.youtube.com/v/i5sY7Q1Hso0
Vid 4 clutchs- http://www.youtube.com/v/tLS1WshkpKI
Vid 5 downstops- http://www.youtube.com/v/Brz8O90v9Sc
Vid 6 Ride Height- http://www.youtube.com/v/W9ZuLn_gNOI
Vid 7 Shocks- http://www.youtube.com/v/wJnGA6Qup8s
Vid 8 Steering servo setup- http://www.youtube.com/v/hz6nTW3llFY
Vid 9 Toe- http://www.youtube.com/v/KyENiQnXpv8
Vid 10 Wings- http://www.youtube.com/v/83j9zluzEU0
Vid 11 through 21 will appear on another guide.
3 Racing Winch; 1/10th scale crawler accessory
The 3 racing crawler winch is designed to give your scaler the look of realism while also providing a functional winch that can actually pull moderately light objects. The link below will take you straight to the winch:
Bearings have 4 main types of shields. Metal. rubber, teflon, and ceramic:
Metal-This is the cheapest bearing and the seal does a poor job of keeping dirt out. Best for onroad purposes as you will be cleaning regularly to keep dirt out. Also commonly found in clutch bells for nitros.
Rubber- Restricts bearing movement and spin. However, the rubber shields protect the bearing from dirt. This makes up for the metal bearing’s in ability to protect the inner part of the bearing. This is ideal for offroad though there is speed consequences. Best used for casual racing or RTR kits over the reduced performance.
Teflon- Work great for racers and those who want performance. They block dirt and spin very free. They are like the best of the metal and rubber worlds. The difference between teflon and ceramic is cost, ability to seal, and while teflon offers greater heat resistance over metal and rubber it is rivaled by ceramic’s ability.
Ceramic- Most costly. However, it offers a better longevity and also heat resistance over the teflon. Offers the best spinning ability and also blockage to dirt. These are the most expensive but the best out there. Hardcore racers, and Squirrel, strive for these and then teflon if not available.
Out of all of the connectors out there the Traxxas ones are the easiest!
The main concept to them is:
1) presolder the tab up to the marked line
2) pretin the wire by applying solder onto it first
3) heat the tab and the wire up at the same time.
4) slide the tab into the connector
Place the tabs on a piece of wood (something that is flat and that can take the heat) with the marked lines face up.
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