After Run Procedure
After run procedure guidelines should be followed for maximum life of the rc engine and also the kit. Following these simple rules always reduces downtime and repair bills as you will keep up with your RC and prevent major damage when you repair things as they happen.
To do after every run
After every run you will want to do the following:
– Empty the fuel tank. Whether if you run out of gas or want to stop before the tank is done, you will want to empty the tank. If you empty the tank and run out of gas then go to the next section. If you did not then while the engine is still running pinch the fuel line. Let the engine run out of gas on its own and then disconnect the fuel line. Holding the line will send the balance of the gas in the tube back to the tank. Combusting all of the fuel ensures that there is not gas left in the engine.
– Use a after run lubricant. There are several types that you can buy and there is also over the shelf kinds like WD-40. These oils will allow you to coat the inner engine that will disperse the nitro against it (preventing corrosion) and also allowing a coating of the internals.
Simply spray the after run oil into the top of the engine with the glow plug removed, cycle the piston a few times, and then repeat once more.
Keeping in mind that this might leave some excess oil in the engine and it may leak out of the pipe.
– Remove the tires. This is two fold. The first part is to clean the driveshaft and the hubs for any dirt that has collected or weeds and grass. This tends to bind the joint and not allow smooth turning.
The second part is for storage. With the wheels removed you can seat the rc on the tires and save the shocks. The constant weight of the RC on its shocks can lessen the ability of the shocks over time.
– Inspection. You will want to look over the entire RC. Look for loose screws (specifically in the engine area as it causes the most vibration), damage to the RC, cracked parts, broken parts, or missing parts. If you can identify a small problem here then you can same money in the long haul and have a RC that is able to run longer as well.
– Look for nitro. If you spill nitro then you will see it. But, if there is nitro around the engine, or below the main bearing in the front of it, then you may have a leak or a engine case crack. This can lead to serious engine damage. It is best to take care of air leaks by sealing them and knowing where the leak is by the nitro will help to know where to seal it. Also, nitro under the front bearing means that bearing is faulty. Replace that bearing as soon as possible to save the life of the engine. Anything that you see now will prevent the loss of a engine prematurely and the purchase of another.
-When you remove the glow plug to spray after run oil then inspect the plug. If the plug is wet then you are running rich. If the plug is black and the coil is brittle then you are running lean or on the throttle too much.
After every 5 runs
– Clean the entire kit. Take out all of the major components (center differential, radio tray, fuel tank, engine, etc) and clean everything. This will give you a better idea of missing, broken, cracked, loose etc. Running with a dirty kit is ok but a clean kit is maintained, will work for you longer, and you know that at any time it will be there for you ready to run instead of ready to break.
– With the engine removed for the above look at the one way bearing, cracks in the engine case, leaks, etc. If you see nitro fuel on the chassis around any of these areas then it is a good indication that the area above it is leaking and needs to be replaced as soon as possible before imminent engine damage. Inspect the one way bearing for wearing of the seals, the engine for cracks, and that the rear is not leaking.
– Clean the cooling head. This could be as simple as taking a can of compressed air and knocking out dirt. If the head is dirty then it will not cool as well and engine temps will go out.
-Clean the air filter. Remove the air filter and clean it with soapy water if needed. If you do this, ensure that you dab the filter with air filter oil and get the oil all over the foam.
Also be sure to clean the plastic case that holds the filter as it can hold dirt and other debris
After every 25 runs or sooner as needed
This section deals more with the function and fit of the kit long term.
– Remove differentials and transmission.
Transmission- retighten the slipper clutch and ensure that all internal gears are not damaged, worn, or mangled. If they are, replace right away.
Differentials- For the differentials, you will also want to ensure that the internal gears and the pinions are not damaged, worn, or mangled. However, you will also want to look at the different oil or grease. If it looks very dark and old then replace with new.
– If you have not checked your shocks by now then you should. Ensure that they are clean and free moving. Check the seals and internal components as well.
-Check the brakes for wear. If you have anything other than a metal disk you can rough them up a little bit for better grab. Also, look at the pads of the brake. Are they starting to fade when you hit the brake? If they are then you can look at the gap between the brake pad and the screw and tighten it up a little bit to compensate for wear. This will prevent the kit from not being able to stop fully in the future.
-Check the clutch shoes. Typically at this point you can notice wear before they completely die and you are left troubleshooting. If they appear excessively worn and will not last another couple of tanks then replace them now.
If you follow the above, even loosely, you will find that you can identify problem areas before they wear down (ie: order them sooner), keep your truck running longer, and be able to enjoy it more as opposed to having it broken all the time.